d’arenberg Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2003 ($35)

The thing I love about opening and drinking a bottle of wine from d’Arenberg is that you’re not just tasting what’s in the glass, but also the generations of history that form the very fabric of the famous McLaren Vale brand with the red stripe. Custodians of the grenache variety (d’Arenberg’s main grenache release is indeed dubbed “The Custodian”), the winery also produces this stunner of a wine. The wine’s aroma is true-blue grenache, exhibiting the variety’s infamous confected notes alongside with a smattering of dried, pruney fruit. In the mouth, there’s buckets of generous flavour with the tastes morphing between sweet and sour; from dark berry fruit to black olives. I’m proud to say I’m a big fan of this medium-bodied drop (and d’Arenberg in general) that went down an absolute treat with my meal of grilled lamb cutlets I ordered on Friday night at Subiaco’s Cico. Highly gluggable and very food-friendly. Oh, and incidentally, I know there’s been a bit of a lull in reviews, but rest assured eager reader(s), the busy period is over and from hereon in, the reviews will be as regular as the daily paper. You can bet on it. www.darenberg.com.au

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