Grasshopper Rock Pinot Noir 2007 (~$30)

Deep, dark garnet in hue, just looking at this wine in the glass lets you know it’s going to be a big ‘un, as do the punchy black cherry and plum aromas. These fruit flavours form the bulk of the densely-packed and ramped up pinot palate with added touches of savouriness and funk adding complexity and interest. Stylistically, there’s a shade of “dry red wine” to this pinot, but its power and generosity is more a case of Mother Nature’s influence – small berries and bunch sizes due to cool spring and summer temperatures – rather than any winery inputs from experienced winemaker Carol Bunn who has worked at Kiwi pinot institutes such as Martinborough Vineyard and Dry River. The stream of zippy acidity that offsets the richness of the middle palate carries right through to the finish; in its jet stream, a lick of succulent summer berries. Big, powerful and charming, this is a remarkable second release from this new pinot-only producer in Central Otago’s Alexandra sub-region. Stocks of this predominantly cellar-door only wine are close to exhausted and looking at its asking price (somewhat of a bargain), it isn’t difficult to see why. Another New World producer that pinotphiles would do well to put on their watch-lists at once. 17.5. www.grasshopperrock.co.nz @grasshopperrock

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