AceHighWine

I suspect that in the context of a line-up of chardonnays, a lot of people are going to glance over this wine, which is a shame really, but probably indicative of the discrimination elegant, restrained whites like this have to face each day.

To me, this wine conjures up images of a singer busking acappella on the side of the street.

You’re walking past and suddenly, something catches your attention and you pause to check things out: there’s something familiar in the tune being sung… that vanillin oak you cop in so many chardies, just with a little more tact.

Then you notice some lovely tones of nectarine, white peach and stonefruit tucked away in the voice, complemented perfectly by a subtle rasp of acidity.

Your feet start to tap and your right hand starts to fumble around your pocket for some loose change - but as you do, you can’t take your eyes off the singer before you. There’s something admirable in the way he doesn’t try to “sell” himself to you with ridiculous vibratos and falsettos - he’s just being true to himself and his style of tune. But you gotta admit to yourself, his get-up - classic pinstriped trousers and white French-cuffed shirt open at the wrist - says nothing but subtle and classy.

Pretty soon, you’ve ditched the idea of fishing for a couple of dollars. You open up the wallet and grab a tenner and pay the streetside tenor his performance fee.

He smiles.

You smile.

And you continue on your way, the faintest of springs in your step…

Or for a slightly less poetic version: Made by Franco d’Anna of Hoddles Creek Estate, this is very much smack bang in the middle of the Yarra Valley winery’s groove, both in terms of style and sheer value for money. Faint traces of vanilla and cashew nut on the nose hint at time spent in wood, but when its time to sing for its supper, the wine lets its fruit do all the talking with long, eloquent sentences of delicious nectarine, white peach and stonefruit bookended by rasps of subtle acidity. On its own, the chardy’s voice is engaging enough to listen to, but give it a decent tune to sing (ie any ditty involving good friends and food) and we’ve got a potential summer chart-topper on your hands. The debut release from Wickhams Road and already the bar’s been set high. 17+ www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au