October 2, 2007
Cosham Chardonnay 2004 ($20)
I’ve noticed - with a bit of embarrassment - that AHW fares pretty poorly when it comes to unearthing “new” names, particularly boutique Western Australia drops. Admittedly, things like this happen when you don’t keep on top of regular reviews, but I”d be turning each of my 10 typing digits into finger-sized liars if I blamed my oversight solely on infrequent updating. So without further delay, I present one of my favourite Perth Hills cellar doors and a regular stop everytime we had east and up a bit.
The Cosham cellar door is nestled in the picturesque and sleep Bickley Valley and the producer has earned a bit of a rep for its frustratingly limited release methode champenoise, pinot and chardonnay. While most of the wines are good examples of cool climate goodness, the 2004 chardy showed some forward, riper flavours that while catching me a little unawares, went down a treat.
Tropical fruit aromas on the nose echo in the mouth with banana, peach, nectarine and apple being the most predominant. These ripe chardonnay flavours enjoy a massage by fingers of gentle acidity and nutty, biscuitty oak whose flavours turn distinctly toasty on the lingering finish. In terms of quality, a consistent drop that is approaching its ideal drinking window with the warmth of summer just months away. 16.5. Limited distribution. www.coshamwines.com.au