AceHighWine

After shooting to global prominence on the back of its Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough has slowly been building up its wine repertoire with pinot noir starting to show much promise. Produced by Marlborough’s Seresin Estate, this is one of the region’s most impressive pinots I’ve tasted in recent times. A blend of hand-picked and hand-sorted fruit from three different Marlborough vineyards, this smells funky and feral like the Mucky Duck Bush Band doing a set of James Brown, Meters and Sly and the Family Stone covers. Couple with more than just a smattering of raspberry and black cherry aromas, this is unmistakably pinot. The palate sees the aforementioned band members red-level the intensity as waves of sour cherry and red fruit latch on to palate with the assistance of fine, astringent tannins: the reverb-soaked finish is long-lasting and cause for rapturous applause. It’s all there and it makes you want to drink more and more - and that’s before you factor the nigh-on laughable asking price. Coupled with an excellent sauvignon blanc, MoMo is a relatively new Marlborough brand value-hunting wine drinkers should keep an eye on, possibly two if you can spare them… 18.5 www.seresin.co.nz

Please don’t let the slightlty OTT Dutch Tilt in the above photo put you off this wine, this is incredible gerwurtz that is both highly gluggable yet fascinating to drink in the same mouthful. Tasted blind, the wine’s floral and fragrant honeyed apricot aromas were very Moscato-like and tipped off the rest of the senses to prepare for a wine of massive sweetness, but it turned out to be a surprising false alarm as the viscous, perfectly judged green-gold goodness splashed against the mouth. While I’ve jotted down some descriptors such as mango, spice, pineapple and lychees, the bulk of my tasting notes are a pathetic, blithering mass of sycophantic superlatives like “amazing texture”, “gorgeous texture”, “seductively soft” and even “magical”. The wine finishes with an intense burst of flavour and a lingering sense of succulence that bodes poorly for a bottle lasting too long once opened. Phenomenal gerwurtz and along with the excellent ‘04 Vinoptima offering, this has inspired me to try to find some extra dollars in my meagre wine budget to splurge on a little more Kiwi gerwurtz. 18.5 www.wairauriverwines.com

The weekend gone was spent in Margaret River at Howard Park’s second International Riesling Tasting. After enjoying ourselves thoroughly at last year’s, we were both looking forward to the 2007 edition of the event with much anticipation. And judging by the number of new and younger faces who showed up early’ish Saturday morning at Howard Park’s picturesque Cowaramup cellar door, It looked like word had got around the station about how good the maiden riesling tasting was.

Howard Park owners Jeff and Amy Burch had amassed a collection of 21 exceptional rieslings from across the world with the South Australian contingent - particularly from the Clare Valley - accounting for more than a third of the entries. Wines were tasted double-blind in three brackets of seven with identities unmasked at the end of the final group. Like last year’s tasting, I encountered some challenging wines in the bracket, but as riesling does an excellent and honest job of reflecting its terroir, my (at times hard to decipher) notes are being laid bare for all.

There’s been plenty of talk about how riesling is starting to go through a global revival. If you’re not getting stuck in to the tremendous value and safe-each-way-bet-goodness being offered by the riesling fraternity, now’s the time to be doing so! www.howardparkwines.com.au

Leo Buring DW117 Leonay Riesling 2005 (Eden Valley, South Australia)
Fresh, vibrant with a tangible sense of richness. Nice texture with ripe tropical fruit flavours that shine brightly throughout the finish. Good drinking wine but not showing much complexity. 16.5.

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling 2005 (Great Southern, Western Australia)
Perfumed with an appealing fragrance of spiced apples and pears. Attractive lime and citrus driven palate with lots of acidity gentle simmering around it. Good, succulent finish. Another beauty from this consistent Frankland River producer and a wine still at the start of its career. 17+

Shaw and Smith Riesling 2005 (Adelaide Hills, South Australia)
Already showing some signs of age. Textured and round with rich and intense riesling flavours. Streak of oiliness across the mid palate. Good length. Cellar door only. 16.5+

Franz Kunstler - Hockheimer Kirchenstuck Kabinett Trocken Riesling 2005 (Rheingau, Germany)
Fresh wine with a dab of sweetness on the palate. The lively acidity still fizzles with purpose and creates a sensation of dryness in the mouth. Great length and finish and a very welcome first shot fired by the German contingent in the tasting. 17.5

Knappstein Ackland Riesling 2005 (Clare Valley, South Australia)
Showing signs of development on the nose and in the mouth with wooly, green bean characters and a rounded texture. Still, the fruit hits hard and straight and doesn’t leave the mouth without a fight as the long, succulent finish seemingly tugs at tastebuds as it drains from the mouth. The first contender from Watervale and unfortunately for all that followed in its wake, a wine that set the bar very high. Would have been a shoe-in for wine of the bracket if not for the German chap wearing the number seven jersey. 18

Fromm La Strada Dry Riesling 2005 (Central Otago, New Zealand)
Looked a bit awkward on the day - there was a pronounced greeness on the palate one mouthful and hints of residual the next. Full of apricot flavour with citrus revealing itselt on the back palate. Good finish. A very different style of riesling to the rest of the pack which was predominantly dry. Thinking about it, Central Otago’s brutal, cold climate (Fromm is based in Marlborough so I suspect they sourced the fruit from the middle of the South Island somewhere)should make it an ideal candidate for riesling, but we only seem to hear about pinot from the region. Perhaps something for me to pursue. 16

Wittman - Morstein Riesling Grosse Gewachs Riesling 2005 (Rheinhessen, Germany)
The product of a big vintage in Germany. Honey on the nose. Juicy, lively wine packed with fresh, forward fruit flavours helped along with gentle acidity. The flavour profiles evolve in the mouth and the wine was the first in the tasting to show real complexity of flavours while retaining its subtlety at the same time. Succulent finish rounds the wine off perfectly. 18.5

F X Pichler - Durnsteiner Hollerin Smaragd Riesling 2005 (Wachau, Austria)
One of two wines that looked bad on the day. Stunk of sulphur. Very intense phenolics - even for a variety like riesling that makes allowance for big acidity - made it very difficult to get into. Linear, tight palate. Shame considering what was on offer when the wine’s identity was revealed. 15.

Wilson Polish Hill Riesling 2005 (Clare Valley, South Australia)
Gentle, textural acidity. Intriguing tropical fruit flavours of mango, nectarine and peach. Good length, subsiding finish. 16.5+

Castle Rock Riesling 2005 (Great Southern, Western Australia)
Another excellent riesling release from this consistent producer from the Porogorups. Tasting softer and more approachable than it did on release, there’s a suggestion of “greeness” to the palate of tropical fruit and lime. Soft, undulating acidity leads to a succulent, long and juicy finish. 17

Leasingham Limited Release Watervale Riesling 2005 (Clare Valley, South Australia)
Closed, tight wine. Perhaps some oxidative aged characters? An almost cheesy edge to the palate detracts. Shame, as the finish was long and succulent. 15

Howard Park Riesling 2005 (Great Southern, Western Australia)
Fresh and vibrant and packed with tropical fruit. The presence of subtle acidity made me think of this as very sophisticated fruit juice for adults (in the nicest possible way). Excellent balance of tartness versus flavour. Typically great, mouthwatering finish. 17.5

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt - Josephshofer Spatlese Trocken Riesling 2005 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany)
Lovely fragrant nose of mango and spice. Soft, classy wine structured around beads of gentle acidity framing a dry palate of tropical fruit flavours. Pineapples and mango shine on the long, juicy finish. Impressive as. 18.5

Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2005 (Henty, Victoria)
Showing signs of development on the nose. That typical Drumborg power has softened considerably, leaving in its wake a mouthful of tart lemon characters that finish dry. Intense citrus-driven wine and a polarising style at this stage of its life. 17.5+

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2005 (Clare Valley, South Australia)
Juicy, powerful, intense, almost tangy, fruit qualities, but the palate finishes with soft, subsiding finish rather than the singe the palate might suggest. Initial impression was “a wine of two extremes”, but with time the palate softened and looked a lot more attractive. 16.5+

Grosset Watervale Riesling 2005 (Clare Valley, South Australia)
Developed, almost toasty aromas. Intense explosion of citrus and attractive floral notes in the mouth. Pristine white peach and nectarine flavours sparkle across the long, juicy finish. 17.5

Robert Weil - Rheingau Riesling Kabinett Trocken Riesling 2005 (Rheingau, Germany)
Gentle fizz on the palate of lemon peel, grapefruit and tangerine - an assortment of intriguing ripe citrus flavours. Excellent balance in the mouth. Good, subsiding length. 17

Forest Hill Block 1 Riesling 2005 (Great Southern, Western Australia)
Some pongy notes on the nose. Very intense, dry, tart palate of equal parts lemon and lime. Very powerful and tangy flavours - almost like sucking on a lemon. Fantastic finish, one of the best if not the best on the lot - shame about the bouquet as this could have been an absolute belter. A very strong advocate for the Great Southern’s potential for producing stunning riesling. 17.5+

Pewsey Vale Contours Riesling 2005 (Eden Valley, South Australia)
Juicy acidity, bright fruit and floral flavours. Didn’t mind this wine but didn’t have much written either. 16.5

Josmeyer Grand Cru Brand Riesling 2005 (Alsace, France)
Juicy, “sweet” characters led by the flavours of pineapple and the rest of the motley tropical fruit gang. Gentle acidity, succulent and long. Great, succulent finish. Another European riesling pearler. 17.5

Pirie Estate Riesling 2005 (Tamar Valley, Tasmania)
Gentle, soft, balanced. Appealing developed citrus flavours. Good length and succulence. Comparable to good riesling from most Australian winemaking regions. Looking forward to seeing more Tasmanian riesling when over there next year. 16.5+

The mailperson (we at AHW always do our best to be PC) delivered this to the office earlier in the day last Friday and in the wake of a f#@$ed (okay, perhaps not so PC) week at work, was promptly whisked to the lettuce crisper of the fridge in the communal kitchen.

Aromas of tropical fruit and a lovely evocative burst of florals. Good fruit weight and richness complemented by jets of subtle acidity. A dash of green bean character adds some complexity to the forward tropical fruit flavours before slowly fading in a dry, long finish with a tasty shot of grassiness to boot. Nice drink and you get a drop with a fair bit of a character for your money. 17/20 mountriley.co.nz

I think it’s a fair comment to make that over the past 18 months, Marlborough sauvignon blanc has lost some of its lustre, paving the way for sauvignon blanc from other regions - particularly cool climate “hotspots” Pemberton (WA) and the Adelaide Hills (SA) - to nab some market share. Apparently people are getting bored with the overt cat’s pee, cut grass and tropical fruit flavours that Marlborough sauvignon blanc boasts plenty of, but I reckon the truth might be a little closer to this: trendies and wine wankers (former ABC crowd perhaps?) appalled that the cat - namely their their once secret squirrel white wine discovery from across the Tasman - has been let out of the bag are now quick to label as passe (”Sauvignon Blanc? That’s SO 2005/2006.” in your snootiest voice possible) the very wine they were enjoying not so long ago.

That’s fine, let ‘em - when the temperature picks up a little and there’s chilled (and not to mention well-priced) bottles and glasses of Marlborough sauvignon blanc available in bottleshop fridges and restaurant wine lists, I’ll be getting stuck in and drinking in the wonders of flavoursome white during the Summer months. The welcome spell of sunshine and warmth over the weekend offered a great excuse for a dress rehearsal prior to summer as Marie and I enjoyed a bottle of ‘06 Madfish Riesling (as good as ever and full of limey stone fruit flavours) with some lunch and the derby on in the background.

During a birthday dinner with wine mates last night, a revelation of M Night Shyamalan clarity and power came to me, ably assisted by mouthfuls of deliciously aged Margaret River cabernet. While I may not have unearthed the meaning of life, I think I might have unlocked the secrets – the real “essence” – of all things gastronomic, courtesy of one of the most memorable audio-visual (and sensual) demonstrations I’ve experienced in a restaurant.

Looking past all the dead weight and carefully choreographed grandeur of difficult-to-pronounce yet impressive sounding French, Spanish and Italian words; the prohibitively expensive prices of top shelf wine and gourmet delights; the prestige and bravado of owning how every many bottles of whatever wine from some knockout vintage or rather; the glossy magazines and the eye-rolling banter of wine wankers and food snobs, the joy of dining consists of three simple elements: good food, good wine and good mates – what amounts to “good” is based solely on one’s station in life. “Good” for a student couple going out for a one-year anniversary will be markedly different (and cheaper) than, say, “good” for an epicurean surgeon-general planning his or her 50th birthday dinner. Enjoying a nice meal isn’t some kind of pissing contest: if you’re into what’s on your plate and in your stemware (or mug, paper cup, beaker, whatever), then you win.

I couldn’t have asked for a better dining experience last night. While organising the night, the brief I had supplied to Senoji (Shop 1, 885 Albany Highway, East Victoria Park. Tel: (08) 9362 2979) was this: “I’ll leave the menu up to you, just keep cooking.” And with the exception of a late-week request for chef’s delicious-to-eat yet laborious-to-make pork cheek skewers, our gastronomic fate was left in the hands of the great Yuki-san, a man holding onto a perfect hit rate for sending us home satisfied and in awe of his authentic cooking after countless visits to his lot on the multi-cultural dining strip of Albany Highway.

The procession of dishes that traveled steadily from stovetop to tabletop sounded and tasted like a “greatest hits” of Senoji cooking. While some of us were reacquainting ourselves with old friends, it was also great to be able to introduce my friends Peter and Elaine – both very experienced food and wine aficionados and fellow protectors of the English language – to one of my favourite eateries. Judging by chopsticks returning to platters on more than one occasion for pieces of gyu tataki, curry croquette and disarmingly fresh sashimi, Senoji got the thumbs up from the literary couple. By the time the final course had arrived, white flags had been hoisted and proverbial top buttons had been done – but the thought of crisp-on-the-outside and soft-in-the-middle pork and chicken katsu was enough to muster one or two final hurrahs from chop sticks that had been well and truly put through their paces throughout the night.

As is customary whenever a good excuse to drink fine wine presents itself, I had a quick rifle through my slowly-growing “cellar” for appropriate liquid accompaniments to the evening. While I had lugged along two Champagnes (the excellent Billiecart Rosè and great value ‘96 Lanson Gold Label) and a bottle of ’05 Yalumba late-picked viognier, only the Rosè had its chance to shine as the vinous limelight was trained on the extra dinner guests the gracious and far-too-generous Peter brought with him.

Peter’s first liquid cab out the rank was a bottle of the 2004 gewürztraminer from Vinoptima in New Zealand’s Gisborne wine region. From my investigations, it looks like Vinoptima is committed entirely to the production of fine gewürztraminer as no other variety is planted on the estate’s eight hectare plot and the new state of the art winery was built solely with the intention of producing gewurtz for the estate. Now that’s dedication – but judging by the immaculate quality wine I was washing down my yakitori with last night, I daresay the investment has paid off handsomely. Great, great stuff that’s as viscously supple as the finest offerings from Alsace, but the palate is dry, intense and focused without a hint of that sweetness that sometimes complicates the art of food and wine matching. This goes straight to pole position for gewürztraminer in my books and I’ll be doing my best to source more of this stellar wine.

No doubt this was a tough act to follow, but Peter’s second offering of a bottle of 1979 (a great year in Margaret River and Singapore) Moss Wood cabernet – complete with bow – was more than up to the task. Wonderfully earthy and soft, yet the truffle and mushroom infused palate still showed hints of blackcurrant and that distinctive bay leaf character I associate with good Margaret River cabernet. And as good as it showed, I still think there’s a little bit of time ahead of it, but why quibble over a few cents – last night it tasted wonderful and I thank Forrie profusely for his generosity in parting with a bottle of this for the occasion – and Bill and Sandra Pannell family for their foresight in establishing Moss Wood all those years ago!

Good food, good wine and – most importantly – good mates: as much as I was loathing turning 28, if this is the price of getting older, then bring on the 30s and beyond!

Footnote: The title of this post is not some lame attempt at contributing to the deplorable “humour” of Engrish (why do we need to laugh at other countries’ – usually Asian ones – misuse of the English language when Western civilization is already so proficient at butchering it themselves?), but a nod towards the generosity of the owners of Senoji. This was the title of the fax I was given describing the evening’s menu, complete with handwritten birthday wishes from Yuki’s wife Kyoko who is in Japan. As if that wasn’t enough, she completely made my night and called at the end of the meal to wish my happy birthday. Arigatou gozaimashita Yuki, Kyoko and Aiko for your hospitality and putting on a great night and arigatou gozaimashita to Peter, Elaine, Ash, Aaron, Lys and Marie for helping take some of the sting off turning 28 in the best possible way. Like I was saying, it’s all about good food, good wine and good mates…

Pulled these out for drinks in the department but of course everyone tells me AFTER I crack ‘em open that they won’t be drinking wine. No matter, after a quick taste, managed to palm these off to people in different departments who no doubt gave them a good home.

Wolf Blass Yellow Label Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($18)
It says South Australian on the label. Whenever I see an entire state mentioned as a wine’s appellation, I can’t help but be a little bit worried. It goes one of two ways, you get something very, very good like say Yattarna, or you get something very, very forgettable. This smells very cool with aromas of green apple, pear and ginger. Restrained, elegant, with elements of citrus, cut grass, apples, lime and a hint of sauvignon blanc-esque tropical fruit. Elegant, rounded finish without that “bite” you often find in sauvignon blanc. Softer style, certainly agreeable. A drop I’d be more inclined to drink with food rather than on its own.

Oyster Bay Marlborough Chardonnay 2006 ($19)
Apples with a smidge of custard on the nose, but not quite custard-apple (for those familiar with the Asian fruit). Nice edge of minerally acidity to the wine, crisp palate of apples and hints of tropical fruit including some gentle grapefruit and mandarin nuances. Good creamy texture, but not overtly rich as the wine underwent zero malo-lactic fermentation (a good thing says I). Soft, stylish and easy drinking drop with good succulence throughout the finish. Bottles of this are expected to start landing on Australian shores in January.

Had a look at a range of sem sav blends and chardonnay at tonight’s tasting with the bracket of blends consisting almost exclusively of Margaret River blends. While I’m only singling out a few for review, the honest truth of the matter is Margaret River SSBs and sauvignon blanc-semillon blends are a very safe bet in the bottle shop and with the weather here in Western Australia lurching awkwardly into summer, the industry can expect these traditionally popular drops to continue moving significant units. Again, while the cost-cutting and miniscule margins offered by retailers continue to plague producers, drinkers are still spoilt for choice and value and some real bargains can be had if you take the time to browse catalogues and websites.

See Saw Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006: I wish I had grabbed this bottle after the tasting to study a little harder, but someone else had beat me to it. Anyhow, what I know is this: it’s a multi-regional blend of semillon from New South Wales’ Hunter Valley and Marlborough sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. Now in the industry, blending fruit from different regions is no big thing, but when the two regions are from separate countries, it becomes a little more special. No battery acid Hunter semillon to be found here – just a nicely rounded, soft drop with attractive tropical fruit and vegetative characters with the greener spectrum flavours more predominant in the finish. Very varietal and tasty.

Cowaramup Wines Clown Fish Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2006: Chewy juicy wine with tropical fruit characters showing mid palate flashes of vegetative beaniness and green apples. Lovely passionfruit flavours shine throughout the long, subsiding finish. Fun name for a fun wine that my spider sense is telling me will be far too dangerous to knock back this summer. www.cowaramupwines.com.au

winebybrad Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2006: The new drop from the faceless conglomerate fronted by the affable Margaret River wine industry stalwart Brad Wehr. Green bean on the nose give way to a palate driven by subtle vegetative bits and pieces rather than overt tropical fruit characters, though hints of gooseberry and other tropical fruit goodness help lend balance and texture to the palate. Softer, lighter and more elegant style of SSB that lends itself perfectly to being enjoyed with food rather than simply being a fruit-forward drop you crack open and sink a bottle of with friends. www.winebybrad.com.au

It’s late, I’m tired after a scrappy 5-all draw at indoor soccer tonight (I goalkeep so bad) and bed looks like a promising prospect, so the chardonnay recommendations will have to wait.