AceHighWine

Now Peter Lehmann is a man I can respect. Not only has the Barossan produced some of Australia’s most memorable shiraz wines, he is also a poker aficionado and has interwoven his two passions with much success: just look at the appointment of the Queen of Clubs as the unofficial “face” of his Barossa winery!

While the warm-climate Barossa Valley is regarded as a sureshot for shiraz, the region’s winemakers have admitted that Barossan cabernet is not quite as reliable a prospect. But in 2002, Mother Nature blessed South Australia with growing conditions reminiscent of the now-legendary 1998 vintage and the results have been pleasing for both drinkers and winemakers. In fact, Peter Lehmann chief winemaker Andrew Wiggan has proclaimed the 2002 vintage as the greatest Barossa cabernet vintage in his 30-year career.

The 2002 Peter Lehmann Mentor (69 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 13 per cent merlot, 10 per cent shiraz and eight per cent malbec) is blessed with lifted notes of black cherry mashed with chocolate biscuits infused with subtle aromas of leather, meat and cigar. Flavours of chocolate-licked cherries and blackcurrants flow freely through the wine, aided by fine, you-won’t-know-they’re-there tannins. Elegant and confidently medium-bodied, this is a refreshing contrast to the powerhouse style of shiraz the region is renowned for. Immensely satisfying straight out the bottle: there’s no need to decant this or to let it breathe – simply yank the cork, pour and enjoy. And if you do so in the company of good friends and an even better poker game, more’s the pleasure. www.peterlehmannwines.com

Considering Mr Lehmann’s love of poker (look at the artwork and names of his wines), I’m surprised it’s taken me this long to review a Peter Lehmann wine on the site, but like catching your straight card on the river, better late than never! The flagship in Peter Lehmann’s vinous armada, the unfathomably long Stonewell is classic Barossa. Waves of lush tannin gently lap against the mouth, leaving sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit washed up on the tastebuds. Eventually, the tide does carry these ripe flavours back out to sea, but not
until they’ve soaked right into the palate. A titanic wine. www.peterlehmannwines.com.au