AceHighWine

VINTAGE 2006 was very late in Western Australia and people aren’t expecting the traditional red powerhouses (cabernet, shiraz and associated blends) from the season to be stand-outs: clever winemaking will no doubt be the year’s saviour. However, some of the ’06 pinot noirs that have trickled on to the market place and in to my glass have been tasty efforts, though many such as the Cullen offering are (or were) cellar-door only jobbies. While I doubt Western Australia will ever compete with Victoria’s Yarra Valley in the top value pinot stakes – some “experts” even (wrongly) suggest WA has no place being involved with any kind of pinot production – this MadFish release is all about accessible, food-friendly pinot for those after quality and value. Very varietal and complex Aussie pinot aromas of earth, herbs, blackberries, that unmistakable pinot stink and a flash of mintiness. A string of juicy fine tannins create a velvet, seamless mouthfeel tying together baskets of cherry and red berry fruit that linger on the palate and finish. Perfect summer style of red that was perfectly suited to Friday night pizza after a whirlwind week (and a couple of slices of post-Saturday morning gym pizza too). 17. www.madfishwines.com.au

The latest addition to the Quaff ($19.95, Hardie Grant) collection on the bookshelf is as good as ever - and I’m not just saying that because I’m part of the tasting panel.

Once the lovechild of the vinous matrimony between Melbournite Max Allen and Perth boy Peter Forrestal (a bit of trivia - Forrie was the founding editor of Australian Gourmet Traveler WINE), the Scarborough wine writer has been granted sole custody of Quaff and has really taken to growing the annual guide to Australia’s best value drops, both in terms of the final product and weekly updates on the Quaff website.

While a handful of horrible growing seasons has led to the much-publicised wine and grape glut of yore starting to dry up, those hunting for value will still find plenty of options vying for their wine buying dollar. According to Forrie, of the 400 sub-$15 wines recommended in the book, 50 - one in eight - are “seriously good”.

Sadly, I missed the tasting where Quaff 2008’s wine of the year - the 2007 Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling - was unearthed, but I can vouch for the objectivity of all the tastings: four seven-wine brackets, all served masked and organised by variety, and the democratic discussion of the tasting panel. It’s a real thrill to discover some of the gems studded throughout the crowded Australian wine market and their subsequent lowly asking prices - some of the value on offer in the fortified stakes (thanks must go largely to Seppelt and Morris) is just bewildering.

Regular Quaff-ers will also notice some other changes to the book including a top 20 round-up of outstanding wine bargains and a reshuffle of categories to reflect the changing industry trends. There’s also a selection of more than 100 recommended drops more than $15 to hunt for, all written in Forrie’s succinct and insightful style.

If you’re still smarting after the commercial success known as “The Festive Season”, Quaff could well be your knight in red and green shining armour - either as a gift for fellow winos or a cheat sheet to unearth some of the nation’s best value drops. www.quaff.com.au

Made from fruit sourced from Central Victorian vineyards and overseen by French and American winemakers, this is an intriguing drop that takes Old World winemaking and puts a New World slant on it. Hints of mango on the bouquet betray the presence of viognier corsing through the shiraz’s veins, as does the gorgeously soft and approachable palate padded out with pockets of peppery, earthy plum. Beautifully succulent from A to B: a most interesting dinner guest. 17. www.terlatochapoutier.com

Complex and heavy handed bouquet full of pencil lead, polish and even hints of tar. If the opening credits don’t tell you this is juicy fruit-bomb territory, the palate does and in no uncertain terms. This is intense, crammed full of blackberries, plums and all kinds of dark-hued fruit, sprinkled with milk chocolate and balanced by delicious bursts of succulence that add seconds to the fruit’s impressive length. Still one of Australia’s most accessible (in terms of taste and being able to find some at the local bottlo) red wine bargains: unpretentiously warm-climate and fruit-driven in style and appeal. It might be a little too forward for some, but it’s hard to fault as a drink that satisfies from the start of the bottle to the end of it. 17 www.orlandowines.com.au

Winemaker Michael Kerrigan’s decision to end a 13-year affiliation with Howard Park to take up the position of winemaker and part-owner at Hay Shed Hill was one of last year’s biggest news stories. Wondering when I’d get the chance to taste his handiwork, I was pleasantly surprised to bump into a couple of his latest releases at yesterday’s tasting. The first - a newly created Block 1 Hay Shed Hill Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007 - wasn’t my thing as I found the barrel-ferment semillon characters intriguing, but ultimately not in a good way as my mind said awkward rather than awesome. Time may change my opinion of this wine, but right now, just not my cup of proverbial tea.

However, the ‘07 SBS was right up my alley and closer to my preferred style of Margaret River SSB. Featuring a new look label (perhaps the association of pitchfork with devilish is a reflection on the new winemaker’s personality?), this year’s offering is full of ripe tropical fruit with pineapple making its way to the fore: but not only is this bursting with flavour, but there’s a rip of gentle acidity tugging beneath the surface that gives the wine some added oomph in the mouth. A burst of passionfruit on the succulent, long finish adds to the appeal and rounds the package off in delicious form. 17 www.hayshedhill.com.au

I suspect that in the context of a line-up of chardonnays, a lot of people are going to glance over this wine, which is a shame really, but probably indicative of the discrimination elegant, restrained whites like this have to face each day.

To me, this wine conjures up images of a singer busking acappella on the side of the street.

You’re walking past and suddenly, something catches your attention and you pause to check things out: there’s something familiar in the tune being sung… that vanillin oak you cop in so many chardies, just with a little more tact.

Then you notice some lovely tones of nectarine, white peach and stonefruit tucked away in the voice, complemented perfectly by a subtle rasp of acidity.

Your feet start to tap and your right hand starts to fumble around your pocket for some loose change - but as you do, you can’t take your eyes off the singer before you. There’s something admirable in the way he doesn’t try to “sell” himself to you with ridiculous vibratos and falsettos - he’s just being true to himself and his style of tune. But you gotta admit to yourself, his get-up - classic pinstriped trousers and white French-cuffed shirt open at the wrist - says nothing but subtle and classy.

Pretty soon, you’ve ditched the idea of fishing for a couple of dollars. You open up the wallet and grab a tenner and pay the streetside tenor his performance fee.

He smiles.

You smile.

And you continue on your way, the faintest of springs in your step…

Or for a slightly less poetic version: Made by Franco d’Anna of Hoddles Creek Estate, this is very much smack bang in the middle of the Yarra Valley winery’s groove, both in terms of style and sheer value for money. Faint traces of vanilla and cashew nut on the nose hint at time spent in wood, but when its time to sing for its supper, the wine lets its fruit do all the talking with long, eloquent sentences of delicious nectarine, white peach and stonefruit bookended by rasps of subtle acidity. On its own, the chardy’s voice is engaging enough to listen to, but give it a decent tune to sing (ie any ditty involving good friends and food) and we’ve got a potential summer chart-topper on your hands. The debut release from Wickhams Road and already the bar’s been set high. 17+ www.hoddlescreekestate.com.au

Under the guidance of new senior winemaker Robb Mann, the Cape Mentelle SBS style is changing from a semillon-dominant blend to a more 50-50 mix with sauvignon blanc just outweighing the semillon in this year’s blend (53 per cent versus 47 per cent for the number crunchers).

Attractive fresh, lifted citrus notes on the nose pave the way for a palate of nicely textured, long, lemon-tinged and floral-kissed tropical fruit. A squeeze of soft acidity helps the wine along but lacks the crunch of some of its fellow Margaret River SSBs - however, while it might not be the most attention-grabbing of wines on its own, it partners magically with food. When looked at as part of a six wine line-up one night, I liked it, but when enjoyed the following day in the sunshine with finger-lickingly-good canapes and a glorious view of the Indian Ocean, the wine looked sensational. An awesome, food-friendly drink for the warmer weather. 17+ www.capementelle.com.au