Ask most West Australians to name a good West Australian chardonnay and Leeuwin Art Series (LEAS - such is the wine’s reputation that the ‘Estate’ in its name has become superfluous) is likely to be at the front of most people’s tongues. Perhaps a better sign of its reputation, it’s one of the few local chardies that West Australians will drink and lend their support to: that’s high praise coming from a collective renowned for constantly looking overseas or over east for drinking inspiration. But you can understand why the unpatriotic would make prodigal sons: if there are any (not many, if any…) producers overseas or east who can consistently produce a wine of LEAS chardonnay’s intensity, power, length and focus, vintage in vintage out - I haven’t heard of them. Maybe I need to taste (or read) more.
Before my visit to Leeuwin, I was under the impression that LEAS was the sum of just one part: the verging-on-mythical Block 20. Last week I learned of the existence of a lower-profiled family that played just as important a role in the construction of LEAS: the good grapes of Block 22 - more-or-less across the oft-traversed driveway and up and under a few fences. The chardonnay that comes off the vines residing on blocks 20 and 22 all fit the description of “full of flavour”, it’s just the way they deliver this flavour that differs. On one hand you have the elegance of Block 20 - blessed with fine acidity and tremendous length. Meanwhile, the grapes off Block 22 (harder, hungrier soil that really make the vines work) reflect their tough neighbourhood and upbringing: focussed, serious, intense and ready to let fly with powerful yet controlled uppercuts of musky banana and tropical fruit. The 2007 (an exo vintage in Margaret River) barrel samples we tasted of each of these two blocks reflected the two differing terroirs while my hasty blending job (ie tip out all but a splash of each wine and then pour one glass into another) made for a crude but effective demonstration of the duo’s synergistic relationship. Guess I can add mixing LEAS chardonnay to my CV as well as dirty, dry martinis.
Although not on the market yet, bottles of the 2005 and 2006 LEAS chardies were on hand to taste. Although a little whiles from release, both wines exhibited that Art Series texture and length - but only time will reveal their true potential and position in the Leeuwin Estate scheme of things. Unlike plenty of other Margaret River chardonnays from the vintage, the LEAS ‘06 still looks a little closed with the acidity sticking out a tad from the nashi pear palate. Swirls of cashew start to reveal themselves on the finish and the oak will likely find its rhythm as the rest of the middle palate comes out of hiding. Not even the greatest wineries are able to escape the vagaries of vintage (16.5+ and expected to improve with time). On the other hand, the ‘05 - a child of an excellent growing season - is looking far more varietal and chardonnay-like. Intense and powerful with excellent balance between creamy nutty oak characters and tightly focussed tropical fruit flavours. A very controlled wine, in the driver’s seat, no need for a map, completely certain of where it’s going. (17.5+ with room to improve and dazzle. A wine which will wow when it’s released.)
Comparing these two in-the-wings releases to the bottles of ‘01, ‘95 and ‘87 dug out of the Leeuwin cellars, the shift from the toasty and charry shorter Burgundian barrels to longer Bordeaux barrels is telling. And that’s not an underhanded swipe at the earlier works (far from it, I loved the complexity of the oak on the ever-changing and long finish of the ‘95), just an observation on the wine’s change in tack. Another tidbit winos may not be aware of: sick of opening bottles to find a seductive aroma of wet cardboard, the team at Leeuwin have toiled through the museum stock of LEAS chardonnay and converted every good bottle over from cork to screwcap. All at the tedious rate of 72 bottles per day. Sadly, much of the wine didn’t make the grade (which begs the question - what happens to this not-up-to-scratch Art Series chardonnay?) but barring a massive screwcap failure or some heavy-handed sulphur treatment, all can look forward to all future museum stock of LEAS at Leeuwin pouring well. www.leeuwinestate.com.au
Finally, my impressions on how previous vintages of LEAS chardonnay are drinking right now.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2001:
Intriguing bouquet of pear and spiced custard. Initially, the taste is predominantly lemon, but spread richly across the palate and helped along by the gentle fizz of acidity. Further citrus complexity in the way of oranges and spice flesh out the succulent palate before nutty oak flavours take over on the finish. For many, this wine’s appeal will be a question of style. 17.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 1995:
Still surprisingly fresh on the nose with aromas of orange and other citrus fruit abounding. Similarly, also remarkably fresh in the mouth: rounded, seamless, great almondy oak characters and stylish and integrated fruit. It’s on the finish where this wine really shines where a magnificently complex and dazzling array of nut, toast and cashew weave in and out of one another. A finish best measured in half-lifes. 18.5
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 1987:
Kind of like a I-haven’t-been-to-the-toilet-since-yesterday shade of urine. The faint fizz of acidity hints at a tiny stretch of life left in the wine, but not much, you’d want to drink this now. Developed citrus chardonnay flavours reminiscent of cooked lemon. Similar to the ‘95 in terms of nutty oak and texture. Complex finish and good length round off the wine. 17.5
